Preparing for my first restoration

[Squid]

As my Steve Flowers order arrived today, it's time to give some thought to my first restoration. The model in question is a 12C Safari Land Rover. All it needs is some fresh paint and attachment of the new luggage rack. Naturally, I want to ensure that I do this properly. So I have a few questions.

1. I've been getting some practice on rivet removal, using modern Hot Wheels cars. Thus far, my results have been hit-and-miss. More likely than not, I've wound up with holes in the base that are enlarged and not perfectly round. A drill press is not a luxury I cannot avail myself of at this time, so I've been using a cordless drill. I'm drilling a pilot hole and then using a larger bit to remove the head. What might be causing the enlargement of the hole in the base? I would like to reassemble the model using a screw, if that makes a difference.

2. I'm considering getting hold of a used toaster oven to bake the paint (as was done when these models were made). Any reason this might not be a good idea?

3. The Steve Flowers reproduction luggage rack does not have the shank molded in, as an original would. (It was passed through the hole in the roof and flared off somehow.) What is the best adhesive to affix the new piece to the roof?

Thanks to all who help!

[Diecastmolester]

Ad 1.: No drill press = the effect you experience. It's that simple.

Ad 2.: This was necessary back then, because the paint formulas they used required it. This kind of paint hasn't even been commercially available for decades and for the paints available today, it's the most superfluous thing imaginable. They will, however, require a good primer to make them stick to the model.

Ad 3.: Tamiya Acrylic Clearcoat

[Squid]

Thanks for the reply! I guess I'll either have to find myself a drill press or (more likely) have someone else perform the restoration. At least I won't have another toaster oven creating clutter.

Edit: I can get this drill press at Harbor Freight for about $70. Perhaps I'll go that route, if that unit would be adequate for the purpose of die-cast restoration.

[Tinman]

Did you read my restoration handbook? It's intended to help answer a lot of questions.

I've never used a drill press to drill base rivets. You want to use a bit that is just slightly larger than the round over on the rivet. when I say slightly, I'm talking thousands of an inch, at best maybe a 1/32 of an inch larger. I use a cordless drill (on low speed) and hold the model in hand. You want to take off just the round over on the rivet and not get into the base at all. this will leave the bulk of the rivet flush with the base, then pop the base off the model. Over drilling is what makes the base hole too big (and buggers up the river post). Use a sharp fresh bit and make that bit for this work only. Go slow (on low speed setting) with a variable speed drill and then stop every few turns (look and see what you've done) until you get the hang of it.

When the humidity is nice and low and it's not too cold, I don't bother to bake any paint work. When the humidity is higher and or it's colder I do bake the paint. In the summer (here in the sub-tropics, I have to bake everything to keep the paint from blushing or loosing it's sheen (or sometimes both). I literally have to have the oven pre-heated and rush them into the oven to keep the problems from occurring. However the sub-tropics and tropics see constant high humidity that you probably only experience on long rainy days.

If you do bake, do not exceed 150* F. Most modern paints start to fail around 225* > F. Baking does have the advantage to cure slow drying paints much faster and make your models easier to handle and assembly with less fear of chipping or leaving finger prints in the paintwork. Want a quick way to see how slow curing the paint you are using is? Look at the manufacturers recoat times. On paints designed to be brushed, or mainly made for an air brush, see the manufacturers instructions and/or the MSDS. Times indicated will be using the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. For rattle cans, the information is clearly printed on the back of the can.

Solvent based paints will have a window of anywhere from one to two hours (from the time of the first coat) to apply all additional coats (no not exceed that window). Once the window has expired, the manufacturer will tell you to wait X amount of time before applying any additional coats. That cure time can range widely with different paint types and manufacturers and can be as soon as: "Anytime" or "24 Hours" and the times extend out to as much a one week (7 days) for some paints. The paint with the 7 day time frame is the most slow to cure and baking will reduce that time to zero if done properly.

The post on the roof of the Landy (where the old luggage mounted and hid) is essentially a blind hole. It does go all the way through the roof, but it is blocked on the interior by the models window insert. The original luggage has the same corresponding nipple (on the underside) as Flowers replacement part. The difference is that Lesney's nipple is slightly larger allowing the luggage to be a press fit into that hollow raised stud. Flowers' nipple needs the help of a dab of glue (because it's made slightly too small). Don't use Super Glue as the fumes can discolor the plastic of the luggage, fog the window insert and even fog the finished paint. I use Elmer's School Glue for many things and the main reason is that it can be removed later with warm water (making mistakes easy to correct). While not designed for this use, it will do a fine job of holding the new luggage in place. I am guessing you are making a custom or restoration for a static display and if so the Elmers will do fine and be error proof. If you are making a toy that small children will have access to, use two part epoxy to assemble everything (of course, mistakes can't easily be reversed with epoxy).

When you have the model all back together and assembled, put some Elmer's School Glue into the hole of the mount (use a toothpick to apply a couple drops in there) and then pop the luggage in place and adjust it to be straight. You can handle the model in 30 minutes (as that should allow enough time for the glue to set/dry).

[Squid]

I did read the handbook, perhaps a bit too hastily.

Clearly, more practice and a lighter touch are needed. I'll get some more practice in, and buy a few new bits if need be. The ones I presently have could be a little too worn.

The luggage I received from Mr. Flowers has no nipple molded in. It must have been redesigned, and it's also slightly smaller than the original. Some pictures are attached (original part on left, reproduction part on right), which also show the sad state the model is in.

[Tinman]

Buy a new bit just for this use, maybe even a new set of  bits (1/4" and smaller) as you will find use for a smaller bit on some models.  The bit should be sharp enough that you can turn it my hand and start to cut away the diecast rivet. If your present bit can not do that, then it's too dull for accurate use.

Here are pics of two Flowers luggage castings and as you can see, they both have the nipple or pip that fits the model.  So, as you say, Steve must have changed his casting at some point in time.  I have painted one a burnt orange so it matches the early color luggage and if I use the darker one, I will paint it a lighter brown to match the original.

Your new luggage can still be glued into place and you can still use the school glue. Place it around the lower edge and clean up any excess using a cotton bud dipped in warm water (squeeze off the excess water after dipping).  Or you can use a two part epoxy putty by placing a ball of putty over the existing hollow stud. Make the ball big enough to contact the underside of the luggage and surround the stud on the roof (get the broken off old nipple out of the stud first).

[Squid]

Using a light touch on the go-button worked wonders. From here on, I'll see what happens when I turn the bit by hand.