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I mentioned, in another thread, that I was searching through the beaters for all the parts to Restore a K8a. I decided on the Scammed Tractor I wanted to use and went on the hunt for a trailer.  I found one with both ears broken off for the tow bar.  Even worse, it was a "Dad Fix" and two holes were drilled where to tow bar ears were and a home made piece of electrical wire made the "Dad Fix" tow bar.  I decided that this one would be the most difficult one to restore. I always like to do the hard part of any project first (makes the rest smooth sailing), so here we go.

In the pic below, I have already filed off any remains of the old tow bar ears which were above and below the drilled holes. I cleaned up the entire end of the trailer in prep for the fix. I've placed two small pieces of foil duct tape on the back side of the holes to contain the epoxy I'll be using. I've already made one of the new "ears" or anchors for the draw bar and it's sitting on the trailer.
I'm going to use JB Weld epoxy and glue the 'ear" right down over the hole drilled by "Dad." That will kill two birds with one stone. The hole will allow for the epoxy to get a stronger grip on the trailer and at the same time I will eliminate the holes.
Here's the process of making the new ears. I started with some aluminum stock of what I felt was the right thickness. I drilled the right size hole in the corner and then cut back away from the edge making a tapered cut with the Dremel and a diamond cut-off disc. Once the two cuts are deep enough, I cut away the excess to allow room to shape the ear using the flat edge of the diamond disc. Once I have it shaped how I want it, I score a line towards the back end and snap it away from the rest of the stock.
Here is both the ears in place. I've already sanded away the excess around the first ear I placed and as soon as the epoxy as set enough I'll sand away the excess around the 2nd ear.
This pic shows the Dremel with the diamond cut-off disc and everything else used in the process.
The body of the Scammell tractor is painted. the base has a fresh coat of silver and the wheel hubs are polished (not shown) and I've just finished making new decals.
I'll post photos of the finished model as soon as I put it all together.

I forgot part of the set, the rig came with a purpose to exist ... it hauls a Caterpillar Tractor. That was an easy restoration and it's all ready to load up as soon as the truck comes out of the body shop.

Very interesting article Joe but was amazed to see you wareing thick gloves (picture 6 - 1ak86). Something I could not do, I have to feel all the parts and tools with my fingers so in fact glues, paints, saw cuts and scuffs go directly to my delicate little fingers...

Ghosthunter.

GHOSTHUNTER wrote:Very interesting article Joe but was amazed to see you wareing thick gloves (picture 6 - 1ak86). Something I could not do, I have to feel all the parts and tools with my fingers so in fact glues, paints, saw cuts and scuffs go directly to my delicate little fingers...

Ghosthunter.

I know what you're saying and for anything but the following, the glove would be very "clumsy." I had just finished cutting out the "ear" or bracket for the draw bar. I should have taken off the glove but obviously wasn't thinking about it and just snapped the pic. The reason for the leather glove is that the diamond cut-off wheel really heats up that little piece of aluminum and quickly makes it too hot to handle comfortably. I tried using a vice grip to hold the aluminum but the extra length gave it leverage that had an adverse effect on controlling the piece while making the detailed cuts. The glove kept my fingers from burning and restored control to holding the work piece. Those gloves were used only for that reason and only during that friction cutting process.

One thing I wear all the time while working with the Dremel is my safety glasses. Especially needed when using wire brushes, those thin brown Dremel cut-off wheels (which I quit using because they shatter in a split second) or polishing pads. I also wear the safety glasses when working with paint stripper, both during application and when washing it off. These are lessons learned the "hard way," and one would think I'd be smarter than that.

Glove or no, I like the way the little replacement ears came out. Once the model is painted they should blend right in and almost forgotten about.

OK Joe, that is a perfectly good reason and understandable. Burnt fingers will certainly hamper delicate modelling.

That is a nice bit of restorative model making and yes, when painted will be looking as good as when it left the factory.

Ghosthunter.