Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Since some folks have mentioned not seeing images of my collection, Here's my first attempt at uploading some photos... this is a Jaguar Mk10 that I recently got in a lot of eBay junkers. It had been repainted by someone in the past...
https://matchbox359808139.wordpress.com/
The photo makes it look a little dirty... maybe because I used my good DSLR to shoot it. Lately I've been getting much better results using my phone camera, the tiny sensor size is giving me better depth of field. More later- cheers!
And here's the finished Jag. I've written up a whole description on my Wordpress site, I hope it's OK to mention it here, at The photo makes it look a little dirty... maybe because I used my good DSLR to shoot it. Lately I've been getting much better results using my phone camera, the tiny sensor size is giving me better depth of field. More later- cheers!
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Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Nicely restored. The cream color suits the Jag very well.
My other musings:
http://diecastcarpark.blogspot.com/
http://diecastcarpark.blogspot.com/
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Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Excellent work on the Jaguar and what a great website. I have looked at the baseplate picture of your Jaguar above and can see you have used a regular aluminum rivet for securing the base so along with the chosen body colour and the rmodern rivet there can be no doubt about your models being restored (actually more correctly rebuilt to a high standard finish) and thanks for referencing ''Tinman's'' restoration section of the forum in your text, Joe will be pleased.
Ghosthunter.
Ghosthunter.
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Thanks very much. The website is very much in the early stages, since restoring obviously takes a lot of time. I have a few restorations that I didn't photograph properly, now I really wish I had. Since I don't consider myself very advanced, I'd very much appreciate any corrections or additions that I should make... or even if there are things I SHOULDN'T say about restoring if it helps the fakers, of which I'm certainly not a fan. Best, BG
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
That would have done nicely for my wedding..Cheers welcome and good job.
Heres the man with the bargains.Always open to offers from this sites members..http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/misterpop/m.h ... m=&_ipg=25
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Hi,
nice restoration on that Jaguar - now I know two models in this color.
Please have a look here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4480&hilit=+jaguar
Stephan
nice restoration on that Jaguar - now I know two models in this color.
Please have a look here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4480&hilit=+jaguar
Stephan
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
The Jaguar looks very handsome in cream - much better than Lesney's metallic coffee which I never liked. Brilliant paint finish too.
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
Thanks very much. I have four of these & have restored two of them. I painted the most recent one in a metallic bronze color, but I don't much care for my paint choice. The paint that I used looks far too grainy & out of scale. I may try to break out one of the airbrushes and the acrylics for the next one.
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
I have to take issue with the above comments. The plastic front grille (white or chrome) is a (cold) press fit into the die cast body. I don't know if it was done by hand or machine (my guess is by hand but Odell might have made a machine for this). The grille is easily removed by pushing the two plastic studs outward at the same time (thus popping the grille off the body). It's easy enough to do with the model fully assembled that grill switching is performed by some less than honest people.BPG wrote:Our next patient is a Matchbox #6d Ford Pickup. This one presented some rather interesting problems, mainly the plastic front grille. It was “riveted,” in a manner of speaking, to the diecast body by pressing hot pins into the plastic. This swells plastic studs, locking the grille very firmly to the body… so firmly, in fact, that there’s really no way to get it off, so it’ll have to be masked during the repaint of the body.
It might be time to start my "Bucket List."
Re: Recent restoration- Jaguar Mk10
I also read where you experienced a wrinkle paint "failure" on a model. With regard to the paint failure, due to wrinkling upon applying additional coats, this issue/problem is easy to avoid. I addressed it in my Guide but it's important enough to mention again here. Every manufacturer will list very important time windows for re-coating on the label of the can. Not reading and adhering strictly to the time windows is what leads to this failure. I photographed a random spray can of paint and this manufacturer even highlights the instructions in bold type: "Any re-coating should be done within 3 hours, or after 72 hours." That means you have up to 3 hours to place additional coats on the model. After that window expires, you must wait a full 72 hours before applying any additional coats or the wrinkle paint failure can occur.
I have seen re-coat windows as small as one hour and then as long as five days before you can apply any additional coats. The thing to remember is that each manufacturer's formula is different and that will give you a different time window for initial re-coats and another different time window for re-coats once the initial window has expired. So, you have to read the label on every can you use.

Further along I read a reference to Marty's (of YouTube fame) method of removing wheels from the axles. I don't know why he uses a large sanding sleeve on a rubber mandrel. It's too large for accurate use, the steel wears out the sanding sleeves quickly and it just seems like a recipe for disaster. I use a small diamond de-burring bit. It's very easy to control and small enough so as not to cause collateral damage if things get out of control. The diamond de-burring bit lasts a long time and is inexpensive, the one I use is about the same size (or slightly larger) than the axle. I will sometimes use a smaller bit if I need more precise control.



I have seen re-coat windows as small as one hour and then as long as five days before you can apply any additional coats. The thing to remember is that each manufacturer's formula is different and that will give you a different time window for initial re-coats and another different time window for re-coats once the initial window has expired. So, you have to read the label on every can you use.

Further along I read a reference to Marty's (of YouTube fame) method of removing wheels from the axles. I don't know why he uses a large sanding sleeve on a rubber mandrel. It's too large for accurate use, the steel wears out the sanding sleeves quickly and it just seems like a recipe for disaster. I use a small diamond de-burring bit. It's very easy to control and small enough so as not to cause collateral damage if things get out of control. The diamond de-burring bit lasts a long time and is inexpensive, the one I use is about the same size (or slightly larger) than the axle. I will sometimes use a smaller bit if I need more precise control.



It might be time to start my "Bucket List."