SupraBob wrote:I have determined that regular "general purpose" soldier does not work with aluminum. I am going to experiment with solid aluminum rod, and try to form domed ends using Marty's technique. I tried using the nails, either my nails are too hard, or my drill press needs to be set to a higher speed. I am hoping that aluminum will be easier to form. Keep everyone posted.
Bob
Soldier won't stick to aluminium or mazak. It will stick to copper or brass tubing and rod (as well as copper plated mazak).
I noticed that Marty claims to use a "modified nail" as the tool in his drill press. Using a metal for the tool, which is the same hardness as the metal you intend to tool, seems like a fools errand. When I was using the drill press for axle ends, I used a modified hardened (censored) as the tool and another as the cradle. I stopped using the drill press due to concerns that it made the restored model much more difficult to spot in photos and thus could possibly lend itself to fraud in the hands of third party individuals with ill-intent.
I'm a huge supporter of restorations and even recreations of rare models. However, I do not support those who attempt to make these models indistinguishable from the real ones. Modelers (such as Nik the Greek) who go to great lengths to make their models look perfect are indeed fueling fraud. We repeatedly see Nik's models finding their way into the hands of known fraudsters and being resold to the unsuspecting. There have even been some cases where collectors have purchased these kind of models and displayed them here. They display them here in attempts to whitewash the model and give them authenticity. Fortunately, members have rooted out and exposed these individuals and the models in question. I would prefer that people leave the axle ends unmodified or use one of Andy McCoy's handy tube & pin kits to create new axles.
I just ask that people be careful with restorations and recreations. They can look wonderful without having to be so exacting as to fool the unsuspecting.
