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I have come back to collecting after about twenty years. Previously I only bought new or mint items, usually Tomica's or Superfast, but recently I bought a job lot of play worn 1-75 Lesneys. I would like to repaint them, so code 3, trying not to disassemble them ( I have perfected a way of localised paint removal) but see a lot of similarly restored Lesneys languishing on ebay for ages at quite reasonable prices. I plan to keep them for the near future but don't want them to be value-less. Am I wasting my dough? (I paid a three figure AUD sum for 13 A and B series cars and trucks)

The problem comes with the downturn in Matchbox collecting. Collectors who are left basically want mint & boxed items only as there are plenty about and mainly that they have a better resale value in the future hopefully so repaints take 2nd fiddle to this. The collectors of code 3 models are also limited and the general thought is why pay someone to paint a model when i can do it myself.
At a cost of over $100 I wouldn't touch them unless they are really bad.

I have about 25 models of the 1-75 series from around 1955-1957. They are all from my childhood and have sentimental value to me. My rule of thumb is that if the model is intact, undamaged, and complete, even if the paint is play worn, I am going to leave it alone, as it seems that these models, just like full size collector cars, are often worth more in unrestored, original condition, than if they are restored to perfection. They are only original once! However, if the model is damaged or missing parts, then it is basically worthless. In that case I will attempt to find replacement repro parts, and restore it so that I can display it for my own enjoyment while remembering how my friends and I would go outside and play with these toys, instead of sitting on the couch with a game controller growing out of our arms.

Just my opinion, as I am no expert on this subject and no nothing about market values.

Bob

I agree with Bob, but for myself, I add one condition to the damaged/missing parts rule. If it's been kid-repainted, or "customized," as I used to tell myself when I was ten, then I don't think repainting and restoring is going to take away any value. My personal opinion is that no collector is going to want a car with thick layers of enamel paint all over it, and I can't think of any way to remove paint in single layers.

Best
BG

I would not buy anyone else's 'code 3' on eBay etc., I only make them myself for my own pleasure, my wife's dismay and my kids' hoots of laughter. I enjoy looking at other people's 'code 3''s though.

'Code 3' status models for me originate from the want of a model painted to look the same as my Dads real car or cars and in fact this worked the other way round when Dad asked me for a model that could be made to look like his real 1961 Vauxhall Victor F-type 'Super' which when he brought it, it had been sprayed by the previous owner by the name of De Havilland, the aircraft company and it was gloss black and pale green a popular colour used by Vauxhall for this car but where the normal production black and green cars were green over black over green (green roof, black waist and green lower half), Dads was black over green over black as the car started out new as all gloss black to be used as a company car and because at that time all black was not offered on the real car it had to be sprayed in the two-tone scheme when the car went to public auction!

I used the matchbox 1-75 series number 45 model for this project and he was so pleased with the results.

I now have this model somewhere, as Dad is no longer with me and it will be a cherished model.

A case of a code 3 model becoming very valuable, at least to me!

Ghosthunter.

My dad drove a Humber Super Snipe estate. I wish matchbox had made one of those.