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Another left for dead model, the Matchbox 22b Vauxhall Cresta, made in 1958. This one was part of a lot of models recently donated by a generous board member. It has some slight body damage to the left rear fender. It's also missing one axle and two wheels.





Its biggest issue is the heavy damage to the body. The base plate is badly bent and completely broken into two pieces. The break is right in line with the rear axle's location.







First step is to get the base off and start working on it. I cut the axle to remove it and the two good (two only) wheels and set the wheels aside for later.



I have straightened out the base plate as much as I dare. The two halves now fit together well. The plan is to epoxy the broken joint in the center of the axle location of the base plate. It's not very wide where the break occurred and even if it were wider, this would not be strong enough. I've cut a thin piece of Stainless Steel to make a gusset on the upper side of the base, right over the break. This will add enough strength to allow the model to be handled and displayed without incident.









While waiting for the epoxy to set on the base repair, I have fixed the fender damage and returned the car back to its original cream color. Now I can dry fit the repaired base. A minor tweak was needed with the front rivet opening and then all was good! The base sets into the model correctly and the model sets level.







In my next post about this model, I will fix the tow hitch, paint the base, install wheels and axles then secure the base to the body. Right before the base goes on I will add the silver trim (and the red trim to the tail lights). Stay tuned (if you're interested).

Nice work!
It looks like you were able to get the base plate off without drilling out the rivets.
Will you have to re-set the rivets to round them over?
Will you also include a new glazing unit or go for an earlier variation?
I look forward to seeing the results.

MatchboxFreak wrote: Nice work!
It looks like you were able to get the base plate off without drilling out the rivets.

The base did come off without drilling. I took the lip or the round over part off both rivets to allow the base to go back on easily.

MatchboxFreak wrote: Will you have to re-set the rivets to round them over?

I never alter the base rivets in an attempt to make them look original. I want people to be able to look closely at the rivets and see they are modified, that keeps the model honest and prevents people from using the model for fraudulent purposes.

MatchboxFreak wrote:Will you also include a new glazing unit or go for an earlier variation?
I look forward to seeing the results.

I intend to keep the variation unchanged. It's a Nick Jones Code 10 (or at least that's what it was when it left the Lesney plant, before some owner crudely painted the model). Code 10 is Cream color body, tinted windows and gray plastic wheels. Silver trim is headlights, grille, front and rear bumpers and with red tail lights. So it will be a straight forward restoration back to Code 10.

The window insert was intact with some minor scratches and some blue paint on it. I soaked the windows in denatured alcohol and all the paint easily came off. Lots of dirt and grime cleaned off the windows and they looked pretty good. I coated them with Future polish and now they are good enough to reinstall.

Oh where are my manners ... thanks for the compliment and for the interest in the transition.

I'm very impressed, that poor Cresta was in the kind of state that even many 'restorers' would have thought twice about tackling it. If you ever stop using the name 'Tinman' may I suggest 'Toysaver' as an alternative

Dr. Tinman did some major surgery here.

Very impressive!! I definitely would not have tackled that one haha.

another triumph
i like the walk through's ....a real insight into the dark arts

I'm all for saving Vauxhalls, so well done Joe, another cracking restoration.

Ghosthunter.

Joe it always amazes me what you are capable of. Can you confirm if that is the original glazing unit from that beater. If so how on earth do you get it looking like new?