Just a few of the bullet points to clear up some of the myths I've heard over the years about these models, and to try to make it easier to distinguish between them. By no means a post for the experts, but something to help anyone wanting to get a start in these wonderful, and frustrating, models.
Couple of dates to start, Meccano issued a sales letter to dealers for Xmas 1939 stating that Dinky Toys were among the limited range they were selling that year, it is safe to assume that by the early months of 1940 production had ceased. Dinkys were not back in the shops until Xmas 1945.
1. Only Pre War models are made of lead.
True. Lead was dropped very early in the Dinky range, typically the 22 Series and 28/1 vans were lead, suffer no fatigue, and are quite heavy in the hand.
I wish I could show you some but sadly they remain well beyond my budget at over £1000.00 for a good one.
What I can show are a few easy to spot Pre Wars as these are castings not made after the war....
22 Series Open Coupe and 28/2 Ford Van.
24 Series Town Sedan.
34 Series Morris Airmail Van
25 Series Type 1 with tinplate radiator, no headlights and bonnet retaining slot, all of these features are pre war only.
2. Only Pre War models suffer fatigue.
True in part, whilst it is true that the versions of pre war models made after the war do not have the problem, Dinky suffered from poor metal issues into the '50's,
the large trailer and Type 1 Foden flatbeds are known to suffer......
Here the bed is clearly bending up from the chassis,
and in the case of the chain lorry has sadly cracked right across.
3. Pre War models are bigger than Post war.
Not True. The same dies were used after the war, it's easy to see how this came about though, as the fatigue causes the models to literally stretch to bursting point..
Pre War 23 Series on left, noticeably smaller Post War on right.
Though these Pre and Post War 23's are the same size, showing very little fatigue in the early model.
Even more noticeable on the Pre War 28/3 in the centre, Post War's to each side.
4. Pre War models have cast open windows, Post War are closed.
Not True. Open windows were closed off over a period of time as dies wore, not just at the start of Post War production.
Red Post War 30 Series has the rear window still cast open.
Likewise on this post War 30 as well.
5. Pre War models have smooth hubs, Post War are ridged.
Not true, the first Post War models till about 1946 still used smooth hubs.
Both these 25 Series are Post War, smooth hubs on left, ridged on right.
Likewise white tyres are no indicator of Pre War, although not made Post War, they are so easily swopped, and re-pro's have been made for so many years now that they cannot be used to indicate anything.
6. Pre War models have thin axles, Post War axles are thicker.
True. This is what you should really look for in a Pre War model.
Top pic : Pre war on left, Post war on right, bottom pic other way round, easier to see in the hand thankfully.
7. Open Chassis's are Pre War, Closed Chassis's are Post War.
Again, yes, and no. Some open chassis's like the 24 Series X chassis on the left were Pre War only, the detailed 36 Series chassis on the right is Post War.......
In other cases like the 25 Series, the Type 2 Pre War chassis was used again till about 1946.
Pre War at bottom, Post War at top.
Pre - Post War Type 2 chassis, and Post War only type 3.
Sure sign of a very early Post War chassis is if it has surplus Hornby Train tinplate cut up for a Dinky chassis, tin was short in 1945!
8. Only Pre War Commercials had advertising.
Not true. Although the 28 Series Vans, and 33 Series Mech Horses lost adverts after the war, the 25 Series kept them for a few months at least.
Pre War type smooth wheels, white tyres, Wakefield Castrol Oil livery, and POST war axles.
That's it Gents, let me know if you find it useful, or want pix of anything in detail?
Cheers
Chris Warr.
Tweezers, superglue and a magnifying glass and it's pretty much back together. 
