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I have quite a few very dirty matchbox which are filthy both inside and out having spent some a few decades in an attic. Can i seek advice from my learned members as to the best way to remove grime and dirt from the exterior and also the interior of the models.

I have taken a dampened q-tip to one which has certainly removed some of the film of grime however i am unsure if i am causing a problem by letting water near the body work and interior. I immediately dry off the model with kitchen roll to absorb any wetness left on the bodywork. Am i going about this the wrong way. (the model i have been practising on is a beater so nothing lost)

I use q tips and wet wipes but be carefully around paper labels.

I use "Pledge" household polish (in the blue can), "Armor all" plastic cleaner and rubber protectant, a selection of pencil erasers (for buffing off, certain paintwork marks and buffing up metal bumpers and axles etc), fine modelling paint brushes for getting inside car interiors, a selection of paper stickers which can be good for removing old label residue from a previous price sticker, just warm the area on the baseplate very carefully to make the old residue a little soft again and run the fresh sticker over it several times and it will come off, but try different sticky labels, they are all different some will, some won't work.

As for really dirty models, I understand the best way is warm soapy water, on cotton buds and used yellow duster material, but use a tiny amount of mild soap, not your fairy washing up liquid, that's got too much salt in it, try a little dab of hand cleaner.

This is what I tend to use for any cleaning or minor refurbishment on such models and yes, a good idea trying it out on a 'beater' model first. Surplus water on it's own is not too much of a problem for our models, as long as you don't live in a very chalky area, otherwise it will leave white stains on bare metal surfaces. Any surplus water or polish should be cleaned off as soon as you are aware of it, but best not to use too much in the first place.

Good luck, Alex, I am sure other members will have other ideas.

GHOSTHUNTER.

Thanks Tim and Kevin, your comments are very helpful.

You could try one of these.......

I clean all of mine with warm water and car wash soap, a soft tooth brush on the outside and a q-tip on the inside. I run the model under warm water to get rid of all the soap. The paper stickers do get wet but don't rub them and be gentle on the transfers. When done I dry them completely with a hair drier making sure any axles and wheels are dry as these will rust if not dried completely. I have done this for many years and never had a problem with the paint or stickers/transfers.

i use qtips and windex...but i try it first cause sometimes if you rub the paint it comes off...so be careful

I use a spray on car "quick detailer" (not a wax), let it set for several seconds, and use a soft microfiber cloth to dry it.

It's amazing how many different methods are used, I thank you all for your advice and will set to work on getting all my grubby models looking healthy again.

It certainly appears that unless i bath my dirty diecast in a bucket of sea water i cant go wrong in using a combination of the techniques you guys have suggested.

Cheers everyone.

GHOSTHUNTER wrote:You could try one of these.......

Of course Ghosty, what was i thinking......this is clearly the solution to my grubby car problem!!

P.S is that one of those car washes with the topless babes that chamiois down your car for you after its washed??? Please say yes.