Thanks, that's more in line with what I was needing. That's the size I was using when I was using machine screws and tried to tap threads. I haven't seen any self-tapping online in quantities under 10,000 but I found out there's a Fastenal store in town. The website says they carry (or can order) 2-56 "self-threading" screws. If the sales help is knowledgeable I may be able to work with them toward a solution. In the meantime, I've been gathering scrap cars to practice on. My initial experiments lead me to believe that all restorations efforts are for naught if I can't put the thing back together, and I don't want to learn with the models that I want to keep. I may also have lined up a drill press and that would make the task much easier. It's a friend of a friend type deal, so I have to get all my ducks in a row in order to make the best use of the opportunity. My hope is to go in once and see what's possible, then only have to make one of two more trips with ten or twenty models in hand.Tinman wrote:The ones I use for matchbox models are 2mm x 4mm self tapping (although they might be sold in inch sizing which is easy enough to cross reference).
In the meantime, I've been sidetracked into restoring some pre-war diecast and slush-cast. Most of what I'm doing now is working on my technique and also trying to paint match. Some things are so far gone that they really need to be painted to be displayable. I don't understand the fetish of diecast collectors for original condition items. That's fine if you can find and afford mint items, and playwear has a lot of appeal, but some things are just too far gone. We restore antique cars, houses, radios and hundreds of other items. The restored versions always sell for more than any condition other than pristine original. Yet toy restoration is frowned upon. I think the general problem is that people don't do it right; especially when it comes to paint colors and detailing. I think I can do better than most work I've seen.
)
